How to: let the board tow you - Laird Hamilton
Laird Hamilton mentioned this tips in the uncut version of the Big Wave Round Table Discussion as produced by Surfline.
Laird explains how during the early days of surfing Jaws’, he kept breaking his leash. So to avoid that, he would wrap his feet around the leash, put his arms above his head, and let the board tow him underwater, escaping the impact zone.
“You'll be like a bullet sometimes. It will shoot you, and it might take you 100 yards underwater, but when you pop up, the board is right there.” - Laird Hamilton
Here’s why it works:
Get you out of the impact zone. Being dragged out of the impact zone reduces the risk of a two-wave hold down or taking the next wave in the face as you surface for air.
Saves energy and helps you relax. The more you rest during a wipe-out, the less oxygen you burn, the longer you’ll last. Being physically relaxed makes it easier to relax mentally and go to your “Happy Place” while you’re being held down.
Gets you closer to the surface. With your legs extended and your arms above your head, you’ll be more streamlined. If you allow your body to follow the pull from your board, the buoyancy of the gun will ultimately drag you closer to the surface. It makes the distance to the surface shorter since you don’t have to swim/climb up the full length of your extended leash. The traditional “Roll-up-in-a-ball-and-protect-your-head-with-your-arms” works well to protect your limbs and skull, but it increases the chance of being pulled down and pushed deeper. Additionally, rolling up in a ball and grabbing your limbs, increases the muscle tension in your arms, legs, and face, burning through much-needed oxygen.
Something to realize:
Laird is talking about surfing big guns, heavy boards at deepwater big wave spots like Pe’ahi. Most big wave spots, like Jaws, are far from shore in deep water with plenty of distance from the beach.
For obvious reasons, this technique isn’t a smart choice when you’re being dragged close to rocks/cliffs or other obstacles.
It doesn’t work with lighter shortboards, as they tend to flutter underwater. They don’t have the same pull as heavy 10 ft+ big wave guns.
It’s debatable if this technique is a smart choice on super shallow, slab-like spots.
Laird’s Products
About Laird Hamilton
Laird Hamilton website
Laird Hamilton on Wikipedia
Laird Hamilton on the Encyclopedia Of Surfing
Laird Hamilton on the International Movie Data Base